Southern Utah Travel Guide

Grand Staircase Escalante Country, Scenic Byway Utah-12, National Parks

by Joseph A. Sprince – Photography by Gerald B. Allen

The Southern Utah Travel Guide is a resource for those planning a road trip in the region. It covers Scenic Byway Utah-12, which travels through some of the most rugged, remote yet beautiful landscapes in the country, from US-89 to Boulder, Utah, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, and nearby national parks and monuments. Details include descriptions, links to many references, and maps.

Southern Utah Map

Maps and Guides

Travel Guide Sections

The travel guide sections, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, Scenic Byway Utah-12, and Nearby Parks And Monuments, have detailed information for the numbered attractions on the Locator Map and are briefly described below. Also, see below for area Visitor Center information.

Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument

  • (1) Cottonwood Canyon Road – Colorful and unspoiled canyon country. From US-89 heading north, road passes Grosvenor Arch and leads to beautiful Kodachrome Basin State Park, then UT-12. Good scenery, hiking, and camping. High clearance vehicle advised.
  • (1a) Grosvenor Arch – Spectacular free-standing double arch named for the founder of the National Geographic Society.
  • (2) Old Pahreah Townsite – The locale features the remains of a 19th century town and a historic movie set in a very colorful canyon. Dirt road usable only when dry.
  • (3) Johnson Canyon / Skutumpah Road – From US-89 heading north, route starts as paved, then becomes graded dirt. Spectacular canyon country in last 20 miles, featuring Bull Valley Gorge. High clearance advised.
  • (9) Smoky Mountain Road – Long dirt/gravel road accesses very remote area of Kaiparowits Plateau backcountry. Spur roads to Lake Powell vistas. High clearance 4WD.
  • (10) Hole-in-the-Rock Road – Dirt/gravel road provides access to trailheads for the Escalante River’s west-side tributaries, including the very popular Hurricane Wash / Coyote Gulch area. Passenger cars okay, except for last six miles.
  • (10a) Hole-in-the-Rock – Historic crossing of Colorado River by Mormon settlers. Steps blasted into cliff created a trail at a 45 degree slope.
  • (10b) Devil’s Garden – Unusual geologic formations and sculpted rocks adjacent to Hole-in-the-Rock Road. Easy hiking trail.
  • (10c) Twentymile Wash Dinosaur Megatrackway – Huge dinosaur track site with 800 footprints.
  • (11) Calf Creek Recreation Area – Highlight is the wonderful hike to Lower Calf Creek Falls, a 125 foot waterfall. Features a lush and heavily wooded campground.
  • (12) Escalante River – One of premiere places to hike in exotic sandstone canyons. River can be hiked from town of Escalante to Lake Powell. Of even more interest are the dozens of unusual side canyons, featuring slot canyons, arches, and more.
  • (12a) Hurricane Wash / Coyote Gulch – Most popular hiking areas in Escalante drainage. Dry Fork of Coyote Gulch accesses Peek-a-boo and Spooky slot canyons. Lower Coyote features arches and a natural bridge.
  • (15) Burr Trail – One of most exciting routes in southwest features Long Canyon, Capitol Reef’s Waterpocket Fold, the Henry Mountains, and Lake Powell. Paved except in Capitol Reef National Park.
  • (15a) Wolverine Loop Road – Road leads to Wolverine Petrified Wood Area and other Escalante east-side canyons. Rugged and remote area, not easy to navigate. High clearance 4WD suggested.
  • (17c) US-89 Attractions – Easily accessible attractions in the southern end of the park.

Scenic Byway Utah-12

  • (4) Red Canyon Recreation Area – Recreation area near Bryce Canyon features similar colorful scenery and terrain. Very nice hiking and camping.
  • (5) Bryce Canyon National Park – Bryce Canyon features spectacular geology, unique in the world. Amphitheaters of colorful limestone rock eroded into bizarre shapes including slot canyons, windows, fins, and spires.
  • (6) Kodachrome Basin State Park – Colorful and unusual scenery created by the erosion of sandstone. Many massive sandstone chimneys and unique formations called sand pipes. Good hiking and camping.
  • (7) Utah-12, Scenic Byway – The most scenic section of Highway-12, east of Escalante town, featuring spectacular views of the “sandstone ocean” from the Head of the Rocks and the thrilling climb of the Hogback.’,
  • (7a) The Hogback – Most scenic section of Utah-12.
  • (8) Escalante State Park – Just outside of Escalante town, park features good camping, a pond for swimming and fishing, and hiking through a petrified wood area.
  • (11) Calf Creek Recreation Area – Highlight is the wonderful hike to Lower Calf Creek Falls, a 125 foot waterfall. Features a lush and heavily wooded campground.
  • (12, 12a) Escalante River – One-lane bridge over Escalante River. Generally good hiking in and along the river.
  • (13) Hell’s Backbone – Exciting backcountry route between Boulder and Escalante. Circles Box Death Hollow Wilderness. Highlight is the hair-raising Hell’s Backbone Bridge with sheer dropoffs on either side.
  • (14) Boulder Town, Anasazi Indian Village State Park – The park features a museum and an excavated Anasazi village. The village was established around 1075 A.D.
  • (15, 15a) Burr Trail – One of most exciting routes in southwest features Long Canyon, Capitol Reef’s Waterpocket Fold, the Henry Mountains, and Lake Powell. Paved except in Capitol Reef National Park.

Nearby Parks and Monuments

  • (5) Bryce Canyon National Park – Bryce Canyon features spectacular geology, unique in the world. Amphitheaters of colorful limestone rock eroded into bizarre shapes including slot canyons, windows, fins, and spires.
  • (5a) Zion National Park – Zion is world-famous for its soaring, colorful monoliths, its great heights, and for its amazing canyons. Easy three hour drive from Las Vegas.
  • (5b) Paria Canyon Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness – Backpacking in spectacular Paria Canyon and Buckskin Gulch. Hiking in Coyote Buttes North (site of the Wave) and South. Limited permits, reservations required.
  • (5c) Cedar Breaks National Monument – Colorful amphitheater with formations similar to Bryce Canyon.
  • (5d) Pipe Springs National Monument – Well-preserved 19th century farming settlement. Guided tours.
  • (16) Capitol Reef National Park – Features numerous large scale geologic features including the Waterpocket Fold, a 100-mile long wrinkle in the earth’s crust known as a monocline.
  • (17) Lake Powell – Glen Canyon National Recreation Area – Lake features water recreation, boat tours, fishing, spectacular scenery. Center of activities at Wahweap Marina at west end of lake (off US-89 north of Page).
    • (10a) Hole-in-the-Rock – Historic crossing of Colorado River by Mormon settlers. Steps blasted into cliff created a trail at a 45 degree slope.
    • (12) Escalante River – One-lane bridge over Escalante River. Generally good hiking in and along the river.
    • (12a) Hurricane Wash / Coyote Gulch – Most popular hiking areas in Escalante drainage. Dry Fork of Coyote Gulch accesses Peek-a-boo and Spooky slot canyons. Lower Coyote features arches and a natural bridge.
    • (17b) Glen Canyon – Scenic canyon below Glen Canyon Dam similar to bottom of Grand Canyon. Features a popular trout fishery, and an excellent one-day raft trip. Car access is at Lee’s Ferry.
  • (17a) Rainbow Bridge National Monument – World’s largest natural bridge in spectacular setting. Most commonly accessed by boat tour from Wahweap Marina.
  • (18) Antelope Canyon (Upper and Lower) – Easily accessed slot canyons famous for spectacular photo opportunities.
  • Guide for Southeast Utah, Canyonlands, Arches, and Four Corners area

Visitor and Information Centers

  • Page, Arizona – John Wesley Powell Museum provides area information and books most local tours.
  • Glen Canyon Dam – At north end of dam. Information, guided dam tours, gift shop.
  • Wahweap Marina – National Park Service visitor center.
  • Big Water, Utah – Bureau of Land Management. Small visitor center with terrific dinosaur exhibit.
  • White House Contact Station – for Paria Canyon/Buckskin Gulch and Coyote Buttes (the Wave), off US-89 thirty miles west of Page. Bureau of Land Management.
  • Kanab, Utah – Grand Staircase Escalante Visitor Center (east end of town)
  • Kanab, Utah – BLM office issuing permits for Paria Canyon/Buckskin Gulch and Coyote Buttes (the Wave)
  • Zion National Park – National Park Service visitor center.
  • Red Canyon, Utah – National Forest Service visitor center (info, exhibits, programs)
  • Bryce Canyon National Park – National Park Service visitor center.
  • Cannonvile, Utah – BLM visitor center (Utah-12 east of Bryce Canyon)
  • Escalante, Utah – Escalante Interagency Visitor Center
  • Boulder, Utah – Anasazi Indian Village State Park
  • Capitol Reef National Park – National Park Service visitor center.